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the Jungle covered Sahyadri Hills (an extension
of the Western Ghat Range), a string of pearl white coves and
sweeping beaches scoop its indented coastline. Enfolded by laterite
headlands and colossal piles of back boulders.
Places to see
Catigo Wildlife Sanctuaryt : The Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary,
10-km southeast of Chaudi, was established in 1969 to protect a
remote and vulnerable area of forest lining the Goa- Karnataka
border. Encompassing 86-sq-kms of mixed deciduous woodland, the
reserve is certain to inspire tree lovers, but less likely to yield
many wildlife sightings: its Tigers and Leopards were hunted out
long ago, while the Gazelles, Sloth Bears, Porcupines, Panthers and
Hyenas that allegedly lurk in the woods rarely appear.
Visitors however, stand a good chance of spotting at least two
species of Monkey, a couple of Wild Boar and the Odd Gaur. The
sanctuary is best visited between October and March months. Cotigao
is a peaceful and scenic park that makes a pleasant day trip from
Palolem, 12-km northwest. The wardens at the reserve's small
Interpretative Centre will show one how to get to a 25m-high treetop
watchtower, overlooking a waterhole that attracts a handful of
animals around dawn and dusk.
Pololem Beach : Palolem, 2-km west of Chaudi, pops up more
often in glossy holiday brochures than any other beach in Goa; not
because the village is a major package tour destination, but because
its crescent shaped bay lined with a swaying curtain of coconut
palms, is irresistibly photogenic. Hemmed in by a pair of wooded
headlands, a perfect curve of white sand arcs north from a pile of
hug boulders to the spur of Sahyadri Ghat, which here tapers into
the sea.
Until recently foreign tourists were few and far between in Palolem.
Over the past five or six years, however, increasing numbers of
budget travellers have begun to find their way here, and the village
is now far from the undiscovered idyll it used to be, with a string
of cafes, Karnatakan hawkers and a tent camp crowding the
beachfront.
Souvenir stalls have also sprung up, catering mainly for the
mini-van and boat parties of charter tourists on day trips from
resorts further north. In spite of these encroachments, Palolem
remains a resolutely traditional village, where the easy pace of
life is dictated more by the three daily rounds of Todi (also spelt
as Toddy) tapping than the exigencies of tourism.
Cavelosim Beach : Sleepy Cavelossim, straddling the coast
road 11-km south of Colva, is the last major settlement in southwest
Salcete: its only claim to fame. A short way beyond the village's
picturesque church square, a narrow lane veers left across an open
expanse of paddy fields to the Cavelossim-Assolna ferry crossing
near the mouth of the Sal River.
If one is heading south to Canacona, turn left off the ferry and
carry on as far as Assolna Bazaar, clustered around a junction on
the main road. A right turn at this crossroads puts you on track for
Canacona.
MABOR
Carry straight on at the junction just past the square in Cavelossim
and one'll eventually arrive at Mobor, where Colva beach fades into
a rounded sandy spur at the mouth of the Assolna River. This would
be an exquisite spot if it weren't the site of South Goa's largest,
and most obtrusive, package tourist enclave.
Crammed together on to a narrow spit of dunes between the surf and
estuary, the holiday inns and beach resorts combine to create a
holiday camp ambience that has as little to do with Goa as their
architecture.
How to reach :
By Rail
For the last year or two, it has been possible to reach Canacona by
direct "Superfast" Express trains from Mumbai, Panjim and Mangalore.
By Road
The regions main transport artery is the NH-17, which crawls across
the Sahyadri and Karmali Ghats towards Karnataka via the district
headquarters, Chaudi. Bus services between here and Margao are quite
frequent.
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