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with pillared kiosks ('chhatris') placed around
it. The structure is built with red sandstone, but white and black
marble has been used to relieve the monotony, the latter largely in
the borders. Haveli Of Hakeem Ashanullah Khan The haveli of Hakeem
Ashanullah Khan, personal physician of the emperor Bahdur Shah Zafar,
was a fortress for those who were able to hide themselves here in
the 'ghadar'- the Sepoy Mutiny time. The mansion almost covers
2,000-square-yards and appears to be a mohalla itself. It was
because of the orders of the Hakeem that Ghalib was given the
scholarship to write the history of the Mughal dynasty. Immediately
after the Mutiny, British confiscated the house of the Hakeem. It
was soon returned too, but not before it was stripped of the old
chandeliers and lamps. True Mughal Architecture The tomb was built
by Humayun's senior widow Bega Begam, popularly known as Haji Begam,
nine years after his death in 1565 according to some, but fourteen
years according to the manuscript of an 18th century text. It is the
first substantial example of the Mughal architecture, with high
arches and double dome, which occurs here for the first time in
India. Although some tombs had already been sited within gardens, it
is also the first mature example of the idea of garden-tomb, which
culminated in the Taj-Mahal at Agra. The enclosure is entered
through two lofty double-storeyed gateways, one on the west and the
other on the south, the latter now remaining closed. A 'baradari'
(pavilion) occupies the centre of the eastern wall of the enclosure
and a bath-chamber that of the northern wall. A Homage To The Royal
Dynasty Several rulers of the Mughal dynasty lie buried in the
mausoleum, although it is not possible to identify their graves.
Among those lying buried here are Bega Begam, Hamida Banu Begam -
Humayun's junior wife, Dara Shikoh - Shah Jahan's son, and the later
Mughals, Jalandar Shah, Farrukhsiyar, Rafi'u'd-Darajat,
Rafi'u'd-Daula and 'Alamgir II, Bahadur Shah II, the last Mughal
emperor of Delhi had taken shelter in this tomb with the three
princes during the mutiny and was captured here in 1857 by
Lieutenant Hodson.
AROUND THE TOMB Barber's Tomb Within the compound of Humayun's tomb
to its southeast stands an impressive square tomb with a
double-dome. It is not quite known who is buried inside it, although
it is usually referred to as Barber's tomb. There are two graves
inside it inscribed with verses from the Quran. One of the graves is
inside it inscribed with verses from the Quran. One of the graves is
inscribed with the figure 999, which may stand for the 'Hijra' year
corresponding to 1590-91. Nila-Gumbad Outside the Humayun's tomb
enclosure on the southeastern side stands an impressive tomb of
plastered stone covered with a dome of blue tiles. Octagonal
externally but square within, its ceiling is profusely decorated
with painted and incised plaster. With its high neck and absence of
a double dome, which would be usual for this period, it is a unique
construction. Conforming to its general colourful appearance around
its drum are traces of tiles of other colours. Known as Nila-Gumbad
(blue dome), it is believed to have been built in 1625 by 'Abdu'r-Rahim
Khan Khan-i-Khanan and is said to contain the remains of Fahim Khan,
one of his faithful attendants. There is some indication, however,
that the tomb may have existed even before the construction of
Humayun's tomb and may, therefore, contain the remains of some other
person. Arab-Sarai The Arab-Sarai consists of a large enclosure
adjoining the southwestern corner of Humayun's tomb. It is divided
into two quadrangles by series of cells provided with a gateway in
the centre.
The western enclosure has now been occupied by the Industrial
Training Institute. Immediately outside its lofty eastern entrance
approached by a gateway from the east, with traces of paintings on
its underside, is the second quadrangle,originally bounded by arched
cells, which is known as the 'mandi' (market) and was added by Mihr
Banu Agha, chief eunuch of Jahangir. The northern gate of the Arab-Sarai
lies immediately to the right of the eastern gate of Bu'- Halima's
garden.
It is said that the Arab-Sarai was built by Bega Begam or Haji Begam
for three hundred Arab 'mullas' (priests) whom she had brought from
Mecca. It is, however, suspected by some that the Arab-Sarai might
possibly be a misnomer, and the enclosure probably housed Persian
workers and craftsmen who were engaged in building Humayun's tomb.
Chilla-Nizamu'd-Din Auliya Outside the north-eastern corner of
Humayun's tomb are the remains of certain rooms with 'verandahs'. It
is believed that this place was used by Shaikh Nizam-ud-Din Auliya
who died in 1325 and whose dargah is described elsewhere, although
the constructional features of an adjacent double-storeyed house
point out to its construction during the reign of Humayun or Akbar.
Bara-Batashewala-Mahal Within an enclosure to the north of Humayun's
tomb, now occupied by the Bharat Scouts and Guides, there are some
monuments. The largest of these, known as Bara-Batashewala-Mahal,
stands on a raised platform each of its sides pierced by five arches
with a vaulted chamber in the centre. Originally it was surrounded
by a walled enclosure, which has now disappeared Over the entrance
to the central chamber is an inscription from which we learn that
Mirza Muzaffar was buried here in 1012 A.H. (1603). Mirza Muzaffar
Husain, whose grandfather came from Khurasan to Babur's court, was
the son of Gulrukh Begam, daughter of Humayun's brother Mirza Kamran.
He was married to the eldest daughter of Akbar, Sultan Khanam. About
40m east from Bara-Batashewala-Mahal but within its original
enclosure stands another rubble-built tomb with a central chamber,
square within and octagonal externally, with floral, geometrical and
inscriptional decoration in incised plaster on the interior. It is
known as Chhota-Batashewala-Mahal. The identity of the person buried
in the tomb is not known. Afsarwala Mosque And Tomb Within the
eastern enclosure of the Arab-Sarai lies a mosque on a raised
platform. Its prayer-chamber is faced by three arched openings, the
central bay being roofed by a dome. In alignment with the mosque to
its north is a long dilapidated hall with arched openings. At the
southeastern corner of the mosque on the same raised platform stands
an octagonal tomb with double dome. The tomb and the mosque go under
the name of Afsarwala. The identity of the 'Afsar' or officer who
raised these buildings is not known. One of the graves inside the
tomb bears the figures 974, which may refer to Hijra year
corresponding to 1566-67. Both the mosque and tomb may have been
built about that time. Bu'-Halima's Garden As the visitor approaches
Humayun's tomb from Mathura road, he passes through a rectangular
enclosure with a tomb in its northern half and a gateway on its
east, which is in the same alignment as the main entrance of
Humayun's tomb. Since the northern wall of the Arab-Sarai abuts on
the plastered exterior of the eastern enclosure of this garden, it
may have existed before the Arab-Sarai, built by Humayun's senior
widow. The garden is known as Bu'-Halima's garden, and an
unidentified lady is believed to have been interred in the
above-mentioned tomb. The coloured tiles, traces of which still
exist on the entrance facing the Humayun's tomb, combined with the
use of sandstone, both set in plaster, lend it a picturesque charm.
It is doubtful, however, if the garden was originally laid for this
tomb, as the latter is not in former's centre, as usual in
garden-tombs.
'Isa Khan's Tomb
'Isa Khan's tomb stands immediately to the south of Bu'-Halima's
garden. It consists of an octagonal garden enclosure, with entrance
on the north, in the centre of which lies the mausoleum, as in
Mubarak Shah's tomb. With a central octagonal chamber surrounded by
verandahs, each side pierced by three arches, the mausoleum rises
from a low plinth and is surrounded by a dwarf wall. Above the
arches runs a 'chhajja' and each of the side is surmounted on the
roof by a domed 'chhatri', with the central dome rising from a
thirty-two-sided drum. The sides of the chamber are closed by
perforated stone slabs except on the west and south. The western
side contains a minhrab on the interior, while the southern side
forms the main entrance. A three-domed mosque projects outward from
the western side of the octagonal enclosure. It follows, thus, the
typical pattern of the octagonal Lodi tombs.
'Isa Khan was a nobleman at the courts of
Sher Shah Suri (1539-45) and his son Islam Shah (1545-54). There is
an inscription over the minhrab mentioning the date of 954 A.H.
(1547-48).
Sabz-Burj
This octagonal tomb with four wide and four narrow sides ('Muthamman-i-Baghdadi'),
stands on the roundabout of the junction of Mathura road and Lodi
road to the west of Humayun's tomb. It has high recessed arches on
all its sides and a high-drummed double dome covered with coloured
tiles, which has given it its present name, meaning the 'green
dome'. Lacking such pre-Mughal features as 'guldastas', chhajjas and
chhatris, architecturally, the building is in Central Asian
tradition and can be placed in the early Mughal period. With traces
of cross-walls on well-shaped plan and wooden beams preserved in the
upper dome, it retains some clues of the methods of its
construction.
Nili-Chhatri
Nili-Chhatri lies within the compound of the Delhi Public School on
the Mathura Road and is octagonal in plan. The building stood on a
raised platform and was originally enclosed by a wall. Its outer
facades were lavishly ornamented with enamelled tiles of several
colours, but the entire superstructure has now been demolished. It
is believed to be the tomb of Naubat Khan, a noble man of Akbar's
court.
Timings : Opened till 10 pm on all days of the week. |